The Galapagos archipelago is made up of 13 main islands, 6 smaller ones and many islets. None of these are near the mainland of Ecuador and a short flight to Baltra is required. The best way to visit this unique place is by taking an expedition cruise.
We opted for a 7-night cruise, which was actually a combo of 3-day and 4-day cruises which were offered separately. Sailing from island to island and discovering the incredible biodiversity of the Galapagos was absolutely magical! From marine iguanas to flightless birds to giant tortoises, there was always something new to see in every port. Truly an adventure of a lifetime!
Many of the islands are not reachable unless you use a very small vessel. Even our 100 passengers Galapagos Legend ship could only navigate close to some of the larger islands.
All shore excursions were included and done by tender boat. Activities consisted of hiking on one of the islands or snorkeling. We had some dry landings, but most were wet where we had to disembark into the water, sometimes up to the waist. Rubber dinghies were the mode of transportation. Even for snorkeling, we had to let ourselves drop backwards into the water and then pull ourselves back into the boat.
If this type of cruise doesn’t appeal to you, it’s also possible to go and stay at a resort on Santa Cruz Island from where you can take daily excursions. You can do most of the islands in a day trip. From the island, you can probably find a smaller boat that can even take you to some of the less accessible places. Be sure to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz. Also, you’ll see you have to share the beach with the sea lions!
Galapagos Islands wildlife
The Galapagos Islands are renowned for their distinctive wildlife and fauna. The many animals, birds and plants are endemic to each specific island. This is the case for the giant tortoises. Their necks, legs and shells differ from one island to another according to the type of food available in the local environment. For example, some of the tortoises have long necks and their shells have adapted to allow them to reach higher vegetation on one island, whereas on another island they have short necks for vegetation closer to the ground.
During our visit, we had the chance to meet Lonesome George, a giant Pinta Island tortoise at the Charles Darwin Research Station. He got that name because he was the last of his kind. He was approximately 100 years old when he died of natural causes on June 24, 2012.
There was no success in getting him to mate with a female from another close breed. Since he was the last of his subspecies that species is now extinct. The sad fact is that humans are solely responsible for the extinction of his kind. Navigators and sailors captured these gentle tortoises and stacked them upside down one on top of the other in the hulls of their ships as a fresh meat source during their voyages.
The Galapagos Islands are located at the convergence of three ocean currents which is favorable to marine life. These conditions attract sea lions, penguins, marine iguanas, manta rays, sharks, dolphins, whale sharks, rays and an array of colorful tropical fish to the waters surrounding these islands. Literally a paradise for scuba divers and snorkelers alike!
Our trip included only snorkeling, but it was exceptional. And I must say that this underwater paradise had a big influence on our decision to become scuba divers.
A memorable moment that comes to mind is when we were snorkeling. Someone cried out “Shark! Shark!” and people answered “Where? Where?” trying to get closer to have a look instead of running for the shore screaming. This is the magic of these marvelous islands. To many, this might sound strange or almost foolish, but we’ve come to learn that encounters with these magnificent creatures are few and far between and given such a rare opportunity we welcome a chance to marvel at them from a respectful distance.
Another moment we’ll always remember is the night the boat was surrounded by sharks! Each evening, after dinner we would go up on deck to watch a show. The lights of the vessel would attract flying fish, which would come up out of the water, fly, but hit the ship’s hull getting dazed by the impact. Some smart sea lions would be hanging out nearby, to capture them for a meal in their stunned state. One day, we witnessed them playing ball with one of these flying fish, throwing it back and forth amongst sea lions. Poor fish!
On one particular evening, we came up expecting the usual show, but instead there were a dozen sharks circling the boat. A single courageous sea lion was there getting flying fish, seemingly unconcerned by the sharks which would try to make their move. The agility of these creatures made it look easy to escape the sharks that would lunge at him without success. Going to bed, we were not sure that we’d fair as well as that sea lion should we fall into the water. We managed a good night’s sleep and kept some great memories.
The prolific and diverse marine life is a haven for seabirds. These beautiful aquatic birds are unafraid of humans making it really easy to admire them and photograph them from up close. It’s an incredible feeling to be able to approach and get within a few feet of these birds. They just hold their ground and don’t fly away. Seemingly not feeling threatened, they just watch us with the same curiosity with which we admire them.
Some bird species have even lost their ability to fly because they have no predators on the islands. This is the case with the flightless cormorants that we saw on the island of Fernandina. Across the archipelago we encountered more than 30 different types of birds including the famous blue-footed booby, the flightless cormorant, the frigatebird and Darwin’s finches.
Created out of molten lava, the Galapagos Islands are unique in all respects. The animals have managed to evolve in order to adapt to their rugged and unwelcoming environment by developing new abilities. A good example of this are the Galapagos marine iguanas. They have learned to swim in order to survive. They eat the seaweed found on the shallow ocean bed, and expel the salt ingested through salt glands they have developed near their noses. Such a fascinating and magical place!
The Galapagos Islands have fascinated scientists and biologists for centuries and continue to intrigue those that come to marvel the beauties they behold.
“The natural history of this archipelago is very remarkable: it seems to be a little world within itself; the greater number of its inhabitants, both vegetable and animal, being found nowhere else.” Charles Robert Darwin, Voyage of the Beagle, 1831
Good to know:
- The Galapagos National Park is a protected environment and a no take zone. Not a shell, not a rock, nothing but pictures and memories.
- There’s an entrance fee for foreigners of $100/adult, and $50/children over 12. Well worth the expense. The number of visitors is limited.
- In order to avoid bringing contaminants from one island to another our shoes had to be hosed off before getting back on the ship. Make sure to bring comfortable walking rubber shoes that can be easily washed (ours got rinsed with a hose!). Don’t be that person with the leather high heels! On some islands, shoes were not even allowed, and we had to walk barefoot. This is a small sacrifice to preserve this unique and amazing treasure, please be respectful and abide by the rules.
- This type of cruise requires that you be in good physical shape as you will be walking on uneven terrain, swimming and paddling.
- A fun fact, you can get your passport stamped!
Conclusion
Our trip to Ecuador was mostly dedicated to visiting the Galapagos by expedition ship. We also planned our international flight to include a visit to the lovely city of Quito for a pre-cruise stay and a post-cruise visit to Guayaquil on the Pacific coast before returning home.
We hope one day to return and explore more of Ecuador. Perhaps for a scuba diving vacation in the Galapagos Islands…
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*Post updated November 2020